Jeffrey M. Pilcher, Hopped Up: How Travel, Trade, and Taste Made Beer a Global Commodity, Oxford: Oxford University Press, 2024.

01.

本体简介

A lively history of beer and brewing traditions as globally connected commodities created through borrowing and exchange from precapitalist times to the present.

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Virtually every country has a bestselling or iconic national beer brand: from Budweiser in the United States and Corona in Mexico, to Tsingtao in China and Heineken in Holland. Yet, with the sole exception of Ireland's Guinness, every label represents the same style: light, crisp, clear, Pilsner lager. The global spread of lager can be told as a story of Western cultural imperialism: a European product travels through merchants, migrants, and imperialists to upend local patterns and transform faraway consumers' tastes. But this modern beer is just as much a product of globalization, invented and reinvented around the world. While distinctive craft beers such as London Porter, India Pale Ale, and Belgian sour ales have been revived by aficionados over the past half-century, they too have globalized through the same circuits of trade, migration, and knowledge that carried lager.

Here eminent food historian Jeffrey M. Pilcher narrates the brewing traditions and contemporary production of beer across Europe, North America, Africa, Asia, and Latin America--from the fermented beverages of precapitalist societies to the present. Over the centuries, he shows, the exchange of technological advances in brewing contributed to regional divergences and convergences in beer varieties, but always in tandem with other social and cultural developments. Unique local products, often homebrewed by women, were transformed into homogenous global commodities as giant brewing factories exported their beers using new refrigeration technology, railroads, and steamships. Industrial food processing helped to recast strong flavors as a source of potential contamination, turning lager, with its clean, fresh taste, into a symbol of hygiene and civilization. Local elites demonstrated their modernity and sophistication by opting for chilled lagers over traditional beverages. These beers became so standardized that most consumers could not tell the difference between them, leading to cutthroat competition that bankrupted countless firms. Over the past half-century, the global concentration of the brewing industry has spawned a reaction among those seeking to return brewing to the local, artisanal, and communitarian roots of the premodern alehouse, but microbrewers have often been driven by the same capitalist quest for profit and expansion.

Based on a wealth of multinational archives and industry publications, Hopped Up explores not only how humans have made beer but also how consumers--from nobility and clergy in the past to those raising a pint today--have used beer to make meaning in their lives.

本书纯真敷陈了啤酒过火酿造传统若何通过前成本想法时候于今的鉴戒与交流，发展成为巨匠互联的商品。

险些每个国度王人有其畅销或秀美性的国民啤酒品牌：从好意思国的百威到墨西哥的科罗娜，从中国的青岛啤酒到荷兰的喜力。可是，除了爱尔兰的健力士，所有这个词品牌王人代表着团结种立场：清淡、领路、透明的皮尔森拉格啤酒。 拉格啤酒的巨匠传播不错被描述为西方文化帝国想法的故事：一种欧洲家具通过商东说念主、外侨和帝国想法者的传播，颠覆了当地模式并变嫌了迢遥糟践者的口味。但这种现代啤酒相通是巨匠化的产物，辞全国各地抵制改进与再改进。天然伦敦波特啤酒、印度浅色艾尔啤酒和比利时酸艾尔等具有特质的精酿啤酒在畴昔半个世纪里被啤酒心疼者重新薪金，但它们也通过与拉格啤酒研究的贸易、移动和常识传播渠说念收尾了巨匠化。

著明食物史学家杰弗里·M·皮尔彻在本书中叙述了 欧洲、北好意思、非洲、亚洲和拉丁好意思洲的啤酒酿造传统和现代出产情况——从前成本想法社会的发酵饮料一直到现在。数个世纪以来，他展示了 酿造手艺跨越的交流若何促进了啤酒品种的地区性各别与趋同，但这恒久与其他社会文化发展相互交汇。独到的所在家具，常常由女性在家庭中酿造，跟着大型啤酒厂应用新的制冷手艺、铁路和汽船出口其家具，迟缓回荡为同质化的巨匠商品。工业食物加工助推了东说念主们将浓烈滋味视作潜在混浊源的不雅念回荡，使簇新爽口的拉格啤酒成为卫生与时髦的标记。当地精英阶级通过选拔冰镇拉格啤酒而非传统饮品来展示其现代性与高超试吃。这些啤酒变得如斯要领化，以致于大多数糟践者无法永诀它们之间的各别，导致浓烈的竞争使无数企业歇业。在畴昔半个世纪里，啤酒行业的巨匠围聚化催生了一种响应， 一些东说念主试图将酿造业归来到前现代酒馆的所在性、工艺性和社群性根源，但微型酿酒商常常也被研究的成本想法利润追乞降推广逸想所运行。

基于多半跨国档案和行业出书物的策划，《跃动的啤酒》不仅探讨了东说念主类若何酿造啤酒，还探讨了糟践者——从畴昔的贵族和神职东说念主员到今天碰杯酣饮的东说念主们——若何应用啤酒来为我方的糊口赋予酷爱酷爱。

02.

辩驳

Alcohol-and especially beer-has been at the center of human civilization from its very beginning. This entertaining, informative book uses beer as a powerful lens through which to view various historical trends over recent centuries, especially globalization and the backlash against it. Highly recommended.

—Edward Slingerland, Author of Drunk: How We Sipped, Danced, and Stumbled Our Way to Civilization

Jeffrey Pilcher takes readers on an encyclopedic beer crawl around the globe and across many centuries. Even if you think you 'know' beer, you will likely find a surprise on every page. A tour de force.

—Maureen Ogle, Author of Ambitious Brew: A History of American Beer

There are few products whose history can be traced hand-in-hand with that of civilization on this planet. Beer, then, is quite unique. And there are few authors who have been able to convincingly and authoritatively detail the evolution of beer and brewing from the ancient Fertile Crescent to the complexities of the brewing business in these times of dramatic change. Pilcher's book is a triumph.

—Charlie Bamforth, Senior Quality Advisor, Sierra Nevada Brewing Company and University of California, Davis

A much-needed, wide-ranging, and occasionally polemical counterpunch to received wisdom on everything from the rise of pale lager to the spread of craft beer, and the movements, social, economic, political, and technological, that drove developments in beer and brewing over the centuries. Hopped Up will be essential reading for anyone wanting to understand the contemporary global beer scene and how we arrived where we are today.

—Martyn Cornell, Author of Around the World in 80 Beers

Hopped Up is packed full of fascinating facts, from the origins of brewing to the rivalries that shaped British industrial beer brewing to the meaning behind the label 'Pilsner.' The stories in Hopped Up illustrate how, time and again, these kinds of interactions between brewers, regulators, and consumers have helped to create new beer cultures.

—Foreign Policy

乙醇——尤其是啤酒——从时髦开头就处于东说念主类时髦的中枢位置。这本既真谛又富饶启发性的著述以啤酒为苍劲的透镜，透视了近几个世纪的各式历史趋势，颠倒是巨匠化过火反弹。强烈保举。

——爱德华·斯林格兰德，《醉了：咱们若何啜饮、跳舞，蹒跚着走向时髦》作家

杰弗里·皮尔彻教唆读者伸开了一场环球百科式的啤酒之旅，横跨数个世纪。即使你以为我方"了解"啤酒，也很可能在每一页王人能发现惊喜。这是一部佳构。

——莫琳·奥格尔，《弃信违义的酿造：好意思国啤酒史》作家

概况与地球时髦史联袂同业的家具寥如晨星。啤酒因此独具特质。概况令东说念主深信且巨擘地胪陈啤酒和酿造业从古代豪阔眉月地区到目下巨变时间复杂啤酒营业演变的作家也历历。皮尔彻的著述是一次进军冲突。

——查理·班福念念，内华达山脉啤酒公司高档质料参谋人，加州大学戴维斯分校

这是一部急需且视线宽阔的著述，它对从浅色拉格啤酒的兴起到精酿啤酒的传播，以及数世纪以来鼓动啤酒与酿造业发展的社会、经济、政事和手艺通顺等一切既有领路建议了偶有争议的有劲反驳。《跃动的啤酒》关于任何想能力略现代巨匠啤酒样式过火酿成经由的东说念主来说王人是必读之作。

——马丁·科内尔，《环游全国品80种啤酒》作家

《跃动的啤酒》充满眷顾不舍的史实，从酿造的发祥到塑造英国工业啤酒酿造的竞争，再到"皮尔森"标签背后的含义。书中的故事展示了酿酒商、监管者和糟践者之间的这些互动若何一次又一次地匡助创造新的啤酒文化。

——《冒昧策略》

03.

作家简介

Jeffrey M. Pilcher is Professor of History and Food Studies at the University of Toronto. He is the author and editor of numerous books, including Planet Taco: The Global History of Mexican Food (OUP 2012), The Oxford Handbook of Food History (OUP 2012), and Food in World History.

杰弗里·M·皮尔彻是多伦多大学历史学和食物策划培育。他著有和主编多部著述欧洲杯体育，包括《星球玉米饼：墨西哥食物的巨匠史》（牛津大学出书社，2012年）、《牛津食物史手册》（牛津大学出书社，2012年）和《全国历史中的食物》。

发布于：浙江省